Ardèche: terrific wines from the « other side »

Self respecting residents of the Left Bank rarely deign to cross the river to the other side. The obvious example is in Paris, where proudly intellectual lefty Left Bankers find the Right side with its department stores (yes, and banks) all a bit tacky. Well, OK, the Louvre is over there, but it’s the rule breaker…

But I’m not talking Paris here, folks; I’m talking the Rhône.

You mustn’t feel that we Vauclusians are arrogant: we just don’t see the need to leave our side to go « over there ».

I exaggerate, of course. One of the most compelling spots in Southern France is Ardèche, the name of a river and a Département that straddles the gap between Provence and the Languedoc-Roussillon.

Led very ably by Michèle Piron Soulat, our small group of « lifestyle » journalists wandered and tasted our way around the area for two days, focussing on three appellations: AOC Côtes du Rhône (Côté Ardèche), AOC Côtes du Vivarais and IGP Ardèche Vins de Pays.

Palace owner, Jacques Lextreyt, in the medieval kitchen

The Côtes du Rhône wines, in all three colours, were mostly delightful and it was not just the tasting venue in the Palais des Eveques in the small town of Bourg Saint Andéol snuggled up against the Rhône. This mansion started out as a Bishop’s palace in the 13^th century. A monumental façade was added on the river side in the 16^th century. It was a seminary for 120 years, then a school for a further 140. In private hands since 2000, it brims with original features and works of art and is open for visits from 1^st June to 30^th September and all year round for groups.

Back to wine. In these short notes, CdR means Côtes du Rhône and CdRV means Côtes du Rhône Villages.

Joyfully tralala: Marie-Laurence Saladin

Highlights of the tasting were the Domaine du Chapitre 2010 CdR rosé (discreet nose, tight, clean and crisp) and the Domaine Saladin Tralala CdR 2010 rosé (a little richer). My favourite white was the Mas de Libian Cuvée Cave Vinium CdRV 2010 from the scintillating Hélène Thibon: subtle and complex nose; rich, dry and long. A good biodynamic estate.

Nine reds followed, most of which were delightful enough to undermine any Left Bank arrogance. Some of this success may come down to the years on offer; the flattering 2007 and wonderfully rich 2009. From the Co-op at St Just St Marcel, the “very 2007” nose of the 3 Saints Grande Reserve CdR 2007 powered in with agitation of the glass. A deal at 4.80€ a bottle. The Khayyam CdR 2009 from Mas de Libian was somewhat exaggerated in its power. From terroir of river stones (as at Chateauneuf du Pape) over red clay, it has a very dense and ripe nose and is silky smooth; a little dusty at the end. Marvellous. As Hélène Thibon said, you’d need a siesta after this one if you drink it in summer.

Nicolas Croze

The Notre Dame de Mélinas CdR 2009 from the Domaine Nicolas Croze was a refreshing step back after the Khayyam; lovely purple colour, a ripe fruit nose and tasting of cherries and slightly meaty. Another Notre Dame, this time de Cousignac CdR 2009 from the organically farmed Domaine Notre Dame de Cousignac, was “splendid, fresh and big… a classic”, according to my scribble.

Raphael Pommier, Domaine ND de Cousignac

Of the CdRV’s, the St Just St Marcel Co-op turned out another value for money drop with their 3 Saints 2009. A little denser, the Le Chapitre CdRV 2006 from the Domaine du Chapitre was tight, delicious, grippy and quite long. The Notre Dame de Cousignac CdRV 2009 was elegant and full of ripe red fruit “but not over the top”. My only disappointment was the Chateau Rochecolombe Futs de Chêne CdRV 2009, which as the name suggests, tasted of melted vanilla ice-cream. OK for American students, I guess.

Stony Ardeche terroir

After lunch at the Palace, we headed off in various cars to explore the CdR terroir, dropped into the remarkable cave at Orgnac (a real cave this time, not a winery), tasted wines from the Côtes du Vivarais and settled in at Labeaume for dinner and sleep. More in a later post.

The Ardeche lifestyle